A Brief Introduction To Macro Photography

I have been interested in macro photography for many years and although I don’t focus exclusively on this type of photography I do keep coming back to it on a regular basis.

While I find macro to be a challenging form of photography to get right, it still fascinates me, and I love the challenge it poses.

Recently I decided to take macro more seriously and to do some work on improving my skill in this genre.

If you would like to try macro photography, but don’t know where to begin, these are some suggestions from my own experience which may be of help.

A BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY

1.   WHAT YOU NEED

If you don’t want to fully commit to buying a dedicated macro lens there are a few alternative options you can try.

Extension tubes are often recommended as a quick and inexpensive way to get into macro photography. They work by being attached between the camera and lens, increasing the magnification of the lens by moving the optics further from the camera. These can be a successful option although they don’t work with every lens.

Magnifying filters are another option. Magnifying or close-up filters are like a magnifying glass and they simply screw on to the end of your lens and allow you to get closer to your subject. These filters are inexpensive and can be purchased in sets of different magnifying strengths, such as +1, +2, +4 and +10. Filters can also be stacked on top of each other to get even greater magnification.

Magnifying filters are a good option to get you started at macro photography. I used them with a 50mm f/1.8 lens, which gave a reasonably blurred background and helped the subject to stand out.

Reversing rings provide a simple setup. You attach the ring to the lens mount and reverse the lens.

While each of these options will give you a flavour of macro photography they won’t give the same results as a true macro lens, so if you discover that you enjoy getting some stunning images by getting close up to your subject, then you may want to consider a dedicated macro lens or a lens attachment.

Lens Attachment

If you are not quite ready to invest in a macro lens then the Raynox DCR 250 might be the right solution for you. The Raynox DCR 250 is a lens attachment (sometimes called a supplemental macro lens) that can be adjusted to fit many of the lenses you already have. The lens is made from 'high index optical glass' so, unlike cheaper magnifying filters, it produces a very sharp image.

A review such as this one https://www.cameratips.com/recommendations/raynox-dcr-250

may help you decide if this attachment is for you.

A Dedicated Macro Lens is undoubtedly the best way to do macro photography as it has the ability to work with short focusing distances and can therefore take sharp images of very small subjects. There are many macro lenses to choose from and your choice will depend on your camera system and the price you want to pay, as well as the focal length you want to use.

The most commonly recommended macro lens is a lens with a focal length of 100mm upwards, as this will provide a practical working distance from your subject and give you the best chance of success.

An article such as this one will give you some guidance 11 Best Lenses for Macro Photography (2024) (digital-photography-school.com) but you can also do your own research based on your needs and budget.

50mm lens with macro filters 30mm macro lens (micro four-thirds fit)

2.   MAKING A START

Due to the close focusing nature of macro photography, it can be a tricky genre to master, and it requires learning and practising some new skills. A slight movement of either your hand or the subject can have a significant impact on the quality of the image.

I am by no means an expert at macro photography, and I have made many mistakes in trying to get some acceptable macro images. The best way to help you get started at macro photography might be to mention some of the mistakes I made and how to avoid them.

 7 mistakes I have made while learning macro photography:

1.    Getting frustrated when I miss focus

The very nature of macro photography, where you are getting extremely close to your subject, means that it will be hard to focus, and a lot of your subject will be out of focus. This can be frustrating, but I have realised that I need patience and perseverance if I want to do this type of photography, and that I need to accept the limitations of my equipment.

Those who are serious about macro photography may consider using a tripod or focus stacking an image, which will help with stability and allow you to have more of the image in focus. Using a smaller aperture will give a greater depth of field but will not allow as much light on your subject. Also, your choice will depend on whether you want a sharp background or a blurry background.

Accepting compromises is part of the frustration, and fun, of macro photography.

2.    Shooting in harsh light

Doing macro photography in the harsh midday sun is rarely a good idea as you end up with harsh shadows and unattractive images. Try to do your macro photoshoot in the mornings and evenings as light is more diffused and softer, resulting in better images. An overcast day is good for macro, but if midday on a sunny day is the only time you can go out then try to find subjects that are shaded from the sun.

3.    Having a messy foreground/background

You want your macro image to be impactful. A messy or cluttered foreground or background will detract from your subject. There may be twigs, sticks, blades of grass obscuring your subject, or the background may have patches of strong colour. A quick look around and a change of shooting angle can often take care of this problem. Try to shoot against a relatively plain, smooth background. A shallow depth of field giving a blurry background can enhance the subject while shooting with the sky as your background can also be effective. You may also be able to ‘clean’ your background in post processing.

4.    Relying on autofocus

I constantly made this mistake when I started out in macro photography. I use autofocus for everyday photography as it is generally reliable and accurate, but for macro photography, particularly when shooting hand held at close distances, autofocus can struggle to find focus, hunt a lot or lock onto the wrong focus point. Using manual focus, and turning the focus ring slowly until you reach the sharpest point, will give more control and accuracy and ensure that the part of the image that you want to be in focus, will be in focus.

5.    Not getting close enough

The terms ‘close-up’ photography and ‘macro’ photography are often used interchangeably. I do a lot of close-up photography and it can produce some nice images. Macro, however, encourages me to get closer, and closer again, and these images are more creative, more interesting and unique. Getting closer, focusing on part of an image rather than the whole image, or filling the frame with your image, opens up a whole new world of photographic possibilities and it can really spice up your photography.

6.    Getting too close

This may be a contradiction to what I have just said, but it can also be a mistake in macro photography to always get too close. While filling the frame with your subject can produce a creative image with lots of impact, it may not always be the best approach. I must admit that I often want to add context to help tell a story with my image, or even to convey a sense of scale. As with all photography, macro is subjective and is as individual as the person doing it. I find that a combination of different types of macro image works for me.

7.    Taking ‘ordinary’ shots

You can take ‘ordinary’ shots with your macro lens, which are basically just snapshots, or you can get creative and make some unique and special images!

If you are shooting still life such as flowers, take a different perspective rather than just capturing images that are at eye level. Capture petals, stems, focus on the centre of the flower, the shape of the flower. Find aspects of the flower that make it interesting and capture those in your image.

Get down on the ground to capture tiny subjects. You can be guaranteed that most people don’t ever know they are there! Be observant, notice little things that others miss, and capture their image.

Experiment with depth of field, background, colour and focus. Be courageous. You might not always succeed but you will discover new things about macro photography, and you will have fun doing so!

Even when a subject doesn’t translate into a macro image you have increased your powers of observation, which is an essential skill for all types of photography.

3.    WHAT TO CAPTURE

Subjects in macro photography are unique to each individual. Some people like to capture images of flowers while others are attracted to insect photography. Textures and shapes can also provide interesting macro subjects. Waterdroplets are a favourite subject, while everyday objects or parts of larger objects are often used. Stone, rocks, peeling paint can all become fascinating subjects, and food is often a popular topic for macro photography.

One of the most fascinating aspects of macro photography is that you continually discover new subjects to shoot.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Macro photography is not without its challenges but with time and patience most of these challenges can be overcome.

Macro photography can change the way you look at the world, give a new emphasis to your photography and provide endless hours of interest and enjoyment.

I hope some of these ideas prompt you to give macro photography a try for yourself.

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